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Asphalt Shingles
- Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
- If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
- Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
- Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
- Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. one dab on either side should do.
- Replace any damaged shingles.
- Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away?Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. It works very well. Paint the valley with Rustoleum? or similar product afterward.
- Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
- Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Built-Up and Modified Bitumen Roofs
- Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
- If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
- Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
- Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
- Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP on OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
- Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. Click here to see how.
- Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
- Water test any sump drains twice per year. once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
- Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Wood Shakes and Shingles
- Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
- Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
- Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
- Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
- Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
- Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away?Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. This stuff works very well.
Single-Ply Roofs
- Remove all debris from the roof surface. This includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws, unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then eventually there will be a leak.
- Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they need to be patched as soon as possible.
- Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
- Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
- Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP on OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
- Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. Click here to see how.
- Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
- Water test any sump drains twice per year. once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don't drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
- Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF)
- Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration.
- Keep an eye on any blisters you see. If they get large enough that they split open, you will need to contact a foam contractor to repair them but they still should not leak.
- Any yellow exposed foam should be covered with polyurethane caulking.
- Any splits, punctures, or other forms of damage to the roof should be repaired using polyurethane caulking.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Clean out all drains and water-test to ensure they aren't plugged.
- Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
- Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
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So if you do not find the information that you need, please feel free to email us. May we suggest you proceed to the Ask the Pros section for general or system specific questions and answers not found below. Otherwise please proceed down the page to:
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Typical Causes of Roof Problems |
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A. Lack of Maintenance
The failure to find and correct minor roof deterioration in the earliest stages is probably the greatest cause of premature roof problems. This is particularly true of roofing materials applied on relatively low-sloped roofs.
B. Weathering
All roofing materials deteriorate from exposure to the weather at rates determined largely by the kind of material and the conditions of exposure. In general, inorganic roofing materials tend to deteriorate less rapidly from exposure than organic roofing materials. All types of roofing materials may be damaged by hail. Exposure to air pollutants and industrial or salt-laden atmospheres may accelerate the deterioration process of some roofing materials.
C. Wind Damage
Roofing materials are subject to damage from strong winds and flying debris. Generally, roofs are not designed to withstand winds of hurricane and tornado intensity. However, roofs may also be damaged by winds of moderate intensity, with gust that may reach 50 to 75 miles per hour. The primary cause of wind damage is from the partial vacuum created by wind blowing over the edge of the roof. Nature tries to neutralize the low-pressure area by bringing in air from a higher pressure area, usually from inside the building. This air pushes up on the bottom side of the roof assembly and, over time, loosens fasteners and breaks the adhesion making the roof susceptible to damage from the next moderate or strong wind. To counteract the effects of wind-uplift forces, the roofing and insulation should be adequately fastened to the roof deck, and a securely-fastened perimeter detail should be provided.
D. Improper Design
Troublesome and costly roofing problems are often the result of faulty initial design of the roof system. Design deficiencies are costly to correct, and usually can only be corrected during roof replacement. However, unless design deficiencies are discovered and corrected during roof repair or re-roofing, the problems relating to them most likely will recur. Some examples of faulty design are:
- Weak roof structures that deflect excessively under load, causing splitting of the roof membrane
- Inadequate roof slope, sagging roof structure, or insufficient number or location of drains, resulting in ponding water
- Inadequate provision for expansion and contraction at changes in deck material or direction, causing membrane splits.
- Incompatible roof materials - i.e. the use of asphalt to adhere a torch-on material (APP).
E. Flashing Failures
The function of flashings is to provide a watertight junction between roofing materials and roof projections or other parts of the structure, and between roof sections. Flashings should be designed to furnish service for at least as long as the materials used in the field of the roof. Flashings are the most vulnerable part of any roof. Their importance and the importance of maintaining them properly cannot be overemphasized.
Many early roof problems are actually flashing problems. Often, repairing the flashings or providing new flashings is all that is needed to make the roof watertight again. Most flashing problems result from inadequate flashing design or faulty construction. Many flashing problems can be reduced or eliminated by careful examination by competent inspectors during roof installation, and by regularly scheduled inspection and maintenance.
In many instances, leaks occur at flashings where there are no flashing defects. These leaks may be the result of open joints in a masonry wall or coping cap, which permits water to enter behind the flashings and into the building. This problem may be eliminated by "through-wall" flashings.
F. Base-Flashing Problems
Some common causes of base-flashing problems are:
- Insufficient number of base-flashing plies.
- Improper base-flashing height.
- Insufficient protective coating, resulting in accelerated weathering and deterioration.
- Omission of cant strips, making the base flashing more susceptible to damage.
- Open vertical end laps or seams caused by insufficient sealing.
- Insufficient adhesion or movement between vertical surfaces and the roof deck, resulting in separation of base flashings from vertical surfaces.
- Loose insulation, causing base flashings to separate from vertical surfaces.
- Improper fastening of base flashings to walls or curbs, resulting in sagging or separation of the flashing from the vertical surface.
- Deteriorating substrates, causing base flashings to separate from the surface, or permitting water to enter behind base flashings.
G. Metal Base Flashing and Bituminous Counter flashing Problems
The use of metal base flashings in the construction of built-up roofs is not recommended. Metal base flashings easily separate from bituminous materials and stripping felts crack at the edge of the metal because of the difference in expansion coefficients between the materials. Open joints between metal pieces and deterioration of the metal are also sources for water entry. Inside and outside corners are particularly vulnerable areas. For these reasons, metal base flashings should be replaced with bituminous base flashings whenever possible.
H. Metal Counter flashing Problems
Metal counter flashings protect the top of bituminous base flashings from water entry. The most common metal counter flashing problems are:
- Counter flashings located too high above the base flashing.
- Metal deterioration caused by a lack or loss of protective coating.
- Cracks and open joints between metal pieces.
- The separation of counter flashings from vertical surfaces.
- Reglets not being sealed.
- Counter flashings not tightly fit to base flashings.
I. Penetration Flashing Problems
Penetrations through the built-up roof membrane are usually flashed in one of two ways. Individual pipes and small vents usually use flat, metal flange flashings that are placed directly on the last ply of roofing material and are stripped in with felts and mastic or felts and bitumen.
Larger penetrations and groups of smaller penetrations usually use curbs constructed of wood, metal or concrete, flashed with bituminous base flashing and metal counter flashings.
Common penetration flashing problems are:
- The failure to properly design the flashing for the penetration.
- Open or broken seams in metal curbs caused by expansion and contraction.
- Standing water behind penetration curbs caused by the omission of crickets.
- Sagging or separating base flashings caused by omission of top wood nailers.
- Missing or deteriorated counter flashing.
- Splitting or separation of the felt stripping over the edge of metal flanges.
- Improper priming and stripping of metal surfaces.
- Fastener backout and separation of the metal flashing flange from the roof around penetration flashings.
- Movement between stack vents or pipes and the flashing.
J. Drain Flashing Problems
A roof's drainage system includes the gutters, leaders, drain openings and scuppers, as well as the slope provided by the structural deck, tapered insulation, crickets and sumps. The primary function of the drainage systems is to prevent the retention of water on the roof by removing water from the roof as quickly as possible. Every roof, including so-called "dead-level" roofs, must have some provision for drainage. Further, it is important that the drainage system be kept free from debris that might interfere with the proper flow of surface water.
Many roof problems can be traced directly to inadequately designed or improperly installed drainage systems; for example, the use of only one drain; the failure to install overflow scuppers in parapet walls; the placement of drains next to support columns instead of at points of maximum deflection; loose or missing drain clamping rings. Ponded water is the principal indication of inadequate drainage, and may indicate the presence of structural defects.
K. Gravel Stop and Metal Edge Strip Problems
The primary function of gravel stops (for aggregate-surfaced roofs) and metal roof edge strips (for smooth-surface roofs) is to close off the edges of the roof to prevent wind damage or blow-offs. Another important function of gravel stops is to prevent the loss of aggregate surfacing near the edge of the roof.
The principal problems with gravel stops and metal edge strips are leakage through open or broken joints between metal pieces, and splitting of the stripping felts at metal edges. For these reasons, gravel stops and metal edge strips should be raised out the water line whenever possible by using raised wood nailers and tapered edge strips. The use of interior drainage is preferred. However, where water must drain over the metal edge, scupper cutouts are preferable to continuous edge drainage.
L. Problems with Rooftop Equipment, Signs, Braces and Supports
Often, the rooftop is used as a platform for all types of mechanical equipment, ladder struts, antennas, flag poles, signs, bracing, etc. These items should not be placed on the rooftop except when absolutely necessary. They should never be mounted or placed directly to the top of the roof membrane, as leaks beneath or adjacent to the supports for this equipment are impossible to repair. Rather, they should be mounted to a support structure or to raised curb-type supports. Flat flange or curb flashings can then be used to keep the roof watertight, and roof replacement and recovering can be done without disturbing or removing the equipment. Pitch pans, however, should not be used to keep supports watertight, and should be avoided where possible. Refer to the ARI/NRCA/SMACNA Guidelines for Roof-Mounted Outdoor Air- Conditioner Installations, and the roof membrane manufacturer for recommendations concerning the proper mounting and flashing of these items
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Emergency Roof Repairs
(Flat & Low Sloped Roofs) |
| Click Here for general information regarding roof leaks and protocol
Please choose one of the following for specific emergency repair suggestions:
Click here for Storm Damage suggestions |
A. General
Emergency repairs may be required after severe weather because leakage into a building can occur at any time (nights, holidays, weekends, etc.). Caution: It is generally not advisable to attempt roof repairs until after the severe weather has ceased, due to the danger of high winds and the possibility of a lightning strike. Caution should be exercised when inspecting a roof after there has been severe weather, or when there is suspect damage to the roofing assembly, because storm damage may have left the roof in a hazardous condition. If the roof condition is questionable, have a professional roofing contractor perform the inspection and necessary repairs. In the event a professional roofing contractor is not available, and to minimize damage to the interior building finishes and contents, emergency repairs may be performed.
Emergency repair procedures should be as simple as possible so they may be performed safely by non-roofing professionals. These repairs should be considered temporary. Permanent repairs should be made by a professional roofing contractor as soon as weather permits.
If the roofing system is under a manufacturer's warranty, the roofing material manufacturer, and the installing contractor should be contacted as soon as possible.
The following are emergency repair guidelines that may be performed by non-roofing professionals, or by professional roofing contractors.
B. Leak Repair Procedures
There are too many different types of roofing membranes to tailor emergency repair procedures for each. However, if literature cannot be located and/or if procedures are not detailed for emergency repairs, the following guidelines are suggested:
Protect the interior: Control the spread of water in the interior by collecting the water in containers or by using plastic sheeting to protect the building contents.
Remove excess water from the roof: Check roof drains and scuppers to be certain that they are open and functional. A frequent cause of roof leakage and roof collapse is excessive ponding on the roof surface due to clogged drains and/or scuppers.
Caution should be exercised when clearing debris from drains. Significant suction forces can be created by draining water, which can suck tools, hands, or arms placed within these vortices quickly into the drain.
Locate the source of a leak: In attempting to determine the source of a leak, locate the point on the roof surface above the area of leakage in the building interior. From this point, first check the condition of rooftop mechanical equipment, then check all flashings at terminations and penetrations. Second, if the system is ballasted remove ballast from the immediate leak area, then check the membrane surface for cuts, splits, or punctures. Finally, check the seams (laps) in the roofing membrane.
NOTE: In many cases, it can be extremely difficult to locate the source of a leak on a roof membrane that has been installed over insulation placed on a structural concrete deck, or over an existing membrane or vapor retarder. If the source of a leak into the building cannot be readily located, the owner or building maintenance personnel may have no recourse except to control the spread of water until a professional roofing contractor can be contacted and arrives at the site.
Perform emergency repairs: once the source of a leak is located, the materials and procedures which will cause the least amount of damage to the roofing membrane should be chosen. Please refer to the following list of suggestions to perform emergency repairs by roofing system type.
Plastic Roof Cement - This method is recommended for use on
all Built-Up-Roof systems and Modified Bitumen BUR and Single-ply systems.
An emergency patch can be made using plastic cement and fabric or roofing felt. Permanent repairs should be made as quickly as possible.
NOTE: If used on single-ply systems, this type of repair may require a larger section of single-ply membrane (and perhaps the insulation) to be removed prior to the permanent repair in order to ensure that any of the existing membrane contaminated with plastic cement is no longer present.
Plastic cement is a trowel-grade product. It is available in ”rain patch” or "wet patch" grades, which are somewhat easier to apply to wet or damp surfaces. Avoid the use of a liquid or pourable asphalt repair products. Liquid products do not usually work well and most often only hinder a roofing contractors attempt to locate the leak source while performing temporary or permanent repairs.
Prior to making emergency repairs to existing gravel or granule surfaced roofing systems – Remove all loose gravel or granules from the membrane surface. Scrape (spud) embedded gravel / granules and surface asphalt to the membrane. For ail smooth surfaced B.U.R. systems including Modified Bitumen single ply, smooth surfaced B.U.R., Cap Sheet B.U.R. Composition Shingles etc., clean the surface of all dirt, dust and debris.
After the surface has been prepaired, and making sure that the area to receive the repair is clean and dry, apply a trowel grade asphalt plastic cement to extend beyond the area of repair approximately six (6") inches. The plastic cement should be applied in a continuos application over the membrane split, puncture, hole etc. Work the material into the membrane by applying a constant pressure while trowling.
NOTE: You can test the adhesion of the plastic cement to the membrane by laying the trowel flat on fop of the applied plastic cement surface and lifting. If the plastic cement lifts with the trowel, and exposes the membrane, it needs to be worked into the membrane better. After applying the first layer of plastic roofing cement to the membrane, embed a strip of fiberglass reinforcing fabric. Over the embedded fabric, trowel an additional layer of plastic roof cement to cover all exposed fabric. The fiberglass fabric acts to reinforce the plastic cement and can greatly extend the life of the repair. Some larger repairs can be covered with a additional layer of Type IV fiberglass felt set into a continous layer of plastic roofing cement.
Sealant & Roof Tape - This method of repair can be used on most smooth surfaced systems including Built-Up-Roofing systems, but is suggested for use on Single-Ply systems such as E.P.D.M. or PVC Thermoplastic.
To make emergency repairs using a sealant or roof tape membrane, start by cleaning the membrane surface with alcohol or a household cleaning solution, such as window cleaner. Then wipe the surface with a clean cloth and "splice cleaner" or white gas (use rubber gloves and proper skin protection).
After the membrane has been cleaned, apply a butyl or polyurethane sealant (caulking), or roof tape to the damaged roofing material. (Note: The surface must be clean for the repair material to adhere.) When using roof tape, pressure should be applied over the entire surface of the tape to ensure adhesion.
Sealants are available at most hardware, builders supply and home discount stores. A variety of roof tape products are also available. These products typically have a release paper on the backside and are a few inches wide. Roof tape products are also available through membrane manufacturers, roofing materials distributors, and roofing contractors.
Duct Tape - This method of repair is recommended for PVC (Thermoplastic) systems only.
Make a temporary patch for the roofing membrane using common duct tape. (Note: The surface must be clean and dry in order for the tape to stick. Cleaning guidelines are described in the "Sealant and Roof Tapes" section.)
C. Storm and Wind Damage Repair Procedures
If roof damage is observed during a storm, it is generally not advisable to attempt repairs or damage control until after the storm because of the danger of high winds and the possibility of a lightning strike.
In some instances, however, repairs during a storm may prevent or minimize further wind damage. For example, if a loose metal edge flashing is observed, securing it during a storm may prevent subsequent lifting, peeling, and blow-off of the membrane. If work is performed during a storm it should be done by a professional roofing contractor at his discretion. Work should not be performed during high winds or electrical storms. If a professional roofing contract is not available, work should not be undertaken unless wind speeds are moderately low and electrical storm activity has ceased.
Following the storm, loose debris on the roof that could be blown off in subsequent storm should be removed.
Because some roofs are in a hazardous condition after wind damage, debris removal should be performed by a professional roofing contractor if one is available within a reasonable time period.
Different types of attachment methods require special considerations, as discussed in the following guidelines:
Ballasted Systems: After high winds, the roof should be inspected to determine if ballast (aggregate or pavers) has been scoured (scattered), leaving areas of bare, unprotected membrane. If so, the exposed membrane should be inspected for open seams, punctures, and tears from flying debris (from rooftop mechanical equipment or from adjacent buildings). Membrane damage should be temporarily repaired before redistributing the ballast.
Temporary repairs made to the membrane should be marked on a roof plan to aid in locating them for later permanent repair. Except for areas less than 50 square feet (e.g. five feet by ten feet), inspection and permanent repairs should be performed by a professional roofing contractor.
Temporary Ballast: on ballasted single ply systems, bare areas greater than 50 square feet should be temporarily ballasted using sandbags, tires, concrete blocks, or concrete pavers. When applying temporary ballast, use caution to avoid overloading the structure.
If lightweight concrete pavers were used for the ballast and were displaced, use concrete blocks, heavy concrete pavers, or sandbags to achieve a minimum load of about 40 pounds per linear foot around the perimeter of the bare area. (The width of the temporary ballast around the perimeter to achieve the 40 pound load will depend on the weight of the ballast being used.) Place the temporary ballast on top of the remaining lightweight pavers to provide temporary protection against further wind damage until permanent repairs are made. In conjunction with setting temporary ballast of 40 pounds per linear foot around the perimeter of a bare area, also apply temporary ballast to secure the membrane when the bare area exceeds 50 square feet.
In some instances, insulation boards below the membrane are displaced. Displaced boards should be repositioned prior to final redistribution of ballast. If membrane cutting is required to reposition the boards, it should be performed by a professional roofing contractor.
When bare areas exceed 50 square feet or when ballast is blown off the roof consult with the manufacturer because, in either of these cases, design enhancements may be advisable.
Mechanically Attached and Adhered, Single-Ply and Modified Bitumen Systems:
After high winds, the exposed membrane should be inspected for damage from flying debris. If fasteners have backed out or popped up and punctured the membrane, or if debris has punctured or torn the membrane, temporarily repairs will be needed.
Mechanically attached membranes should also be inspected to determine if any batten bars or fastening plates were uplifted, or if the membrane has separated from them. Likewise, fully adhered membranes should be inspected to see if they separated from the substrate. If the membrane is unattached from the substrate or fastening system, and the area exceeds 50 square feet, temporary ballasting should be performed as described previously under "Ballasted Systems."
If any of the above conditions are observed, a professional roofing contractor should make the permanent repairs.
If a mechanically attached membrane is observed billowing, consult with the manufacturer or the installing contractor. While some billowing may be normal, an excessive amount would indicate that design enhancements may be advisable.
If all or a portion of the membrane is peeled back, the building is vulnerable to water infiltration. In some instances, it is possible to reposition the membrane to provide temporary protection. Repositioning should be performed by a professional roofing contractor if one is available within a reasonable time period. After repositioning, the membrane should be fastened at the perimeter, the damage repaired, and temporary ballast installed.
If membrane is too damaged to be repositioned for temporary protection, replacement material will be needed. If a professional roofing contractor cannot provide temporary or permanent roofing service within a reasonable time period, it may be necessary to utilize large tarps or sheets of polyethylene secured at the perimeter and temporarily ballasted as previously described.
D. Installation of New Penetrations or Equipment
ne of the most common causes of leakage is the improper installation of new roof penetrations or equipment. To avoid roofing problems associated with new penetrations or equipment, consult with a local roofing contractor qualified to apply the type of roofing system in place, to recommend temporary tie-in steps prior to the installation of rooftop penetrations or equipment. This would include such items as TV Antennae. sign or equipment supports, skylights, plumbing soil stacks, HVAC equipment, and electrical conduits.
If the roof system is under warranty, the name and telephone number of the roofing membrane manufacturer should be written down and kept in a safe place for future reference. Notification prior to installation will allow the contractor or manufacturer to recommend how to incorporate the new penetration or equipment and how to protect the membrane warranty, if one exists.
The permanent addition of penetrations or equipment to the roofing system should be undertaken by a professional roofing contractor qualified to perform such work. The name, address, and telephone number of a roofing contractor qualified to perform the work can usually be obtained from the roofing membrane manufacturer, or RoofHelp™, if the original roofing contractor is not available. Improper installation of penetrations or equipment may void the roof warranty. If the building maintenance person is forced to install temporary flashings, set the flashing flange(s) into a continuous layer of plastic roofing cement and follow the procedures set forth above.
E. Permanent Repair Requirements
The emergency repair procedures described in the previous sections are strictly temporary in nature and must be replaced with permanent and complete repairs by a professional roofing contractor in a timely manner. If the roofing system is covered by a warranty, notify the manufacturer of the roofing membrane as soon as possible to obtain instructions and recommendations to facilitate a permanent repair.
BACK TO TOP |
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Emergency Roof Repairs
(Average to Steep Sloped Roofs) |
| The first thing you want to do is protect the interior of your building. Find something to collect the dripping water. If water is dripping onto some papers, a computer printer, or some other item of value, then MOVE THE ITEM!
Please choose one of the following:
- Composition Shingles
- Wood Shingles or Shakes
- Tile
- Slate
- Metal
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D e t e r m i n i n g Y o u r R o o f ' s S l o p e
The slope of your roof is determined by the vertical rise in inches for every horizontal twelve inch (12") length (called the "run"). It is expressed with the rise mentioned first and the run mentioned second. For instance, if your roof has a four inch (4") rise for every horizontal foot, then it has a "4 in 12" slope (or pitch).
A fairly easy way to determine the slope is to take a 12" level and set one end on the roof surface and make it level. Then take a tape measure or ruler and measure from the other end down to the roof surface. This will give you the slope of the roof. The slope of the roof in the following picture would be expressed as "4 in 12" or "4 on 12" and written as 4/12, 4:12, or 4":12".
C a l c u l a t i n g M a t e r i a l s
A s p h a l t S h i n g l e s
This page was designed to help you figure asphalt shingle material quantities according to roof size and other criteria. RoofHelp was very careful in designing this page but please understand it is for informational purposes only. We cannot possibly guarantee 100% accuracy in any way, shape, or form because each roofing project is unique and all variables cannot be accounted for.
Roof Size
Don't know how to measure your roof? No problem, simply click here.
Enter roof size in square feet. RoofHelp will automatically round off the number and add five percent to accommodate material waste.
Type only the number. Don't add any extra items such as a quote mark (') or "ft." For example, if your roof is 2,500 square feet, type in only the number 2500, not [2,500'] or [2500 sq. ft.], or [2500 ft.].
Type of Project
Is this an overlay or are you tearing off the existing roof?
Overlay
Tear Off
Strong Wind Area
This is important because it will determine the proper nailing pattern for the shingles and the felt underlayment. Strong winds (usually in excess of 50 MPH) can rip shingles off of a roof if they aren't fastened properly or haven't had time to seal. Aggressive nailing of the shingles and felt can help reduce damage.
Click here if you live in a high wind area:
Yes, winds in my area can exceed 50 MPH.
Roofing Nails
Your roofing nails should be long enough to penetrate your roof deck 3/4" or they should go all the way through your deck if it's less than 3/4". For instance, if you have 1/2" plywood for a roof deck, your roofing nails should go all the way through and poke out in the attic. Please be advised that it can be difficult to find roofing nails longer than 1-3/4" in length.
Are you still not too sure about what length to use? No problem, simply click here for some suggestions.
Please choose the length of roofing nail you plan on using:
1"
1-1/4"
1-1/2"
1-3/4"
2"
If you're using a coil nail gun to install your shingles, then you don't need to tell us the length of roofing nail you're using. Coil nails are figured by quantity, not weight. RoofHelp will automatically calculate the amount of coils you need. Unfortunately, most roofing material supply places don't sell coil nails by the individual coil, you have to purchase them by the box. Most boxes contain 27 or 36 coils.
Felt Underlayment
Felt underlayment is that black tar paper stuff you see roofers putting on prior to installing the shingles. There are two basic types used for underlayment - #15 Felt and #30 Felt. Both consist of organic felt saturated with asphalt. #15 starts as a dry organic felt weighing around four pounds per 100 square feet and the #30 felt weighs nine pounds per 100 square feet. Both are saturated with asphalt for a final weight of about eight pounds and twenty pounds per 100 square feet, respectively. #15 comes in rolls three feet wide and 144 feet long (four roof squares per roll) while #30 rolls are roughly half that length (two roof squares per roll).
When considering felt underlayment, you will need to know your roof's slope. Click here to see how to measure your slope. Here are RoofHelp's recommendations for felt usage:
1. If your slope is between 3" in 12" (3:12) and 4" in 12" (4:12), use two layers of #15 felt.
2. If your slope is greater than 4" in 12" (4:12), use one layer of #15 felt.
3. The use of #30 felt is strictly your choice. RoofHelp does not think it's necessary for asphalt shingles and does not recommend it if you are using a lightweight shingle weighing 240 pounds per square or less. If you are unsure of the shingle weight, you'll need to contact the manufacturer of the shingles.
Choose the type of felt underlayment you are going to use:
#15 Felt - one Layer
#15 Felt - Two Layers
#30 felt - one Layer
Underlayment Nails
Underlayment nails should follow the same criteria as roofing nails when determining length. As a general rule, you should consider using 3/4" underlayment nails if you have a 3/8" or 1/2" wood deck and 1" nails if your roof deck is 5/8" in size or greater. Most houses have 1/2" plywood or OSB, but some older homes will have 1x6 or 1x8 planks.
RoofHelp.com only calculates underlayment nails in accordance with the fastening patterns found by clicking HERE. These are fastening patterns recommended by both roofing material manufacturers and by the National Roofing Contractors Association. All information is based on the specifications of nails manufactured by Simplex Nails.
Choose the type of nail you want to use for your felt underlayment:
Square Head (Not available in 1/2" or 2" lengths)
Round Head
Plastic-Cap (Not available in 1/2" length)
If you are going to use Plastic Cap nails, then you can skip this next part. Plastic cap nails are purchased according to nail count, not weight, and are available in boxes of 200 or so.
Nails are available in lengths of up to three inches but you shouldn't need nails longer than 2" and in most cases the nails won't be longer than 1-1/4". The longer ones are usually only used when roof insulation is installed, or for other types of construction.
Choose the length of nail you plan on using for the underlayment so RoofHelp can calculate approximately how many pounds of nails you'll need:
1/2"
3/4"
1"
1-1/4"
1-1/2"
1-3/4"
2"
Ice Dam Protection
Do you live in an area where the average January temperature is below freezing? If so, then you need to install an ice and water protection membrane to your roof. These are commonly referred to as ice shields, ice guards, ice and water shield (which is the trade name used by Grace, a manufacturer), and sometimes water shields. They are typically available in thicknesses of 25 mils (.025") to 40 mils (.040"). The rolls are typically thirty-six inches (36") wide and thirty six feet (36') or seventy-five feet (75') long.
For more information on ice dams and how much you'll need, visit the RoofHelp library at http://www.roofhelp.com/library.htm or visit some manufacturers' web sites by going to the Roofing Products Page of RoofHelp.com and clicking on the Ice Dam Protection link in the left frame.
Hip and Ridge Cap
If you plan on purchasing premade hip and ridge cap, then simply measure your hips and ridges, add five percent for waste, and tell the material supplier how much you need and they'll order it for you.
If you plan on cutting your own hip and ridge cap from regular 3-tab shingles, then simply type the lineal feet you need in the box below.
Type only the number. Don't add any extra items such as a quote mark (') or "ft." For example, if you have eighty-nine feet of ridge, type in only the number 89, not [89'] or [89 feet], or [89 ft.].
Nails for the Hip and Ridge Cap
The nails you'll need for your hip and ridge cap will be longer than those you need for your roof - usually a half inch longer or so. RoofHelp will calculate the amount of nails you need depending on the length of roofing nail and how much hip and ridge you have.
http://www.roofhelp.com/estimati.htm
NAILING THE UNDERLAYMENT
There has always been a lot of controversy in the construction industry on how to properly nail the underlayment or whether it's even necessary. Some roofers use regular roofing nails, some use staples, some attach it with hardly any nails at all, using only a single nail every few feet. It's not that roofers are trying to rip anyone off, they just don't see the need for nailing the underlayment so heavily since the shingles do such a fine job of securing the underlayment.
RoofHelp, and all other professional roofing organizations, consider properly nailed underlayment to be an important part of the roof assembly. It acts a secondary waterproofing element plus it provides longevity for the roof system, click HERE for a brief explanation. There have been several occasions where shingles have blown off in heavy thunderstorms or hurricanes but because the felt underlayment was nailed securely, the damage to the interior of the building was minimized.
RoofHelp has two ways of nailing the felt - one for high wind regions and one for all other regions. If you often experience winds of 50 mph or more, you should seriously consider the high wind method of nailing.
9" & 18" Nailing Pattern for Roofing Felt
Each row of nails that are 18" on center should be approximately 12" from the outside edge of the roll.
12" & 24" Nailing Pattern for Roofing Felt
Each row of nails that are 24" on center should be approximately 12" from the outside edge of the roll.
9" & 18" Nailing Pattern for Roofing Felt
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